Lasers and Pattern Construction

Developing artworks for laser cutting, the designs had to be drawn and formatted as a stencil to enable the laser to pierce into the fabric, but at the same time still remain in tack as a whole piece of fabric. From my research one design in particular I had digitally drawn a arrangement of cherry blossoms. When constructing images in adobe illustrator the vector colour has to be in a black and white format. Exploring different stencil overlays to get the best results; manipulating the design further by adding sections into the design so it does not fall away entirely from the main piece of fabric, which could be proven to be quite difficult especially if some of the lines in the art were very fine.  From the offset I am aware that laser cutting certain pieces would affect the handle of the fabric, and especially that the construction is based on contouring, so another piece of fabric would have to be placed to stabilize the pattern piece or possibly several layers of fabric.

So far in regards to the underwear construction; creating my own patterns and developing a detailed comprehension on how certain shapes should sculpt the body.  Reflecting to my practice this is something we do naturally, creating and developing shapes to fit the human form. But rather then generating patterns from paper I suppose the traditional method and manipulating the shape via darts to fit precisely on to the form. And also we already know that we can mould other materials around the form in order for it to sit on the body. When we create our patterns we use a series of lines and we alter lines, so consciously or subconsciously we are “mapping” we map out our creative shapes onto the human form.

Close analysis of this theory would be irrelevant for some of the shapes that I have created, because the line has already been manipulated to the fit the body and with out the component of the “Dart” the shape has already been completed. If we was not working with fabric and using a rigid material such as plastic the traditional methods of pattern making would not be sufficient in order for the shape to fit. Segments in the design where the dart is required, the line contour mapping could work in relation to fabric and rigid materials.

#fashion #haute #couture #laser #cutting #patterns #digital #print #vectors #illustration #design #designer #British #japan #anime #cherry #blossom #Tokyo #animation #3D #collection #runway #lace #leather #suede #swaroski



Designer Theories

SRI JACKET 4 blog 3Alexander McQueen, one designer in particular that does this extremely and effectively well; he makes fabric come to life, and looking more closely at his works, it is not just what is applied to the fabric. Once a process is done it’s how the fabric is constructed to fit/sit on the form that makes the design remarkable, this was an application that needs to be adopted.  Iris Van Herpen another designer that uses contemporary applications in constructing garments and taking body contouring to all new heights and utilizes new or developed materials.  I have been investigating her laser cutting pieces she creates structures is one, but manipulates the structure to fit the form.

#haute #couture #designers #creative #industry #McQueen #laser #cutting #creativecut

1950’s Underwear & Fantasy Fashion

Research, Sourcing, and Discussions… is all taking place now, investigating deeper in to the 1950’s fashions; what was really apparent in creating the structure of the tree on the body was not achievable via outer garments. That is not to say the certain elements will not be used in the silhouettes.  1950’s underwear would elevate the concept, body contouring and overall construction has to be as close to the body as possible and somewhat engulfing the form to make it believable/achievable.

This questions whether the designs are to be outerwears of clothing or does it? It’s quite ironic how we have underwear and outerwear but certain pieces of underwear you would wear as outerwear also. What makes its suitable to wear it as an outer garment? These were points that’s where raised while coming to the decision of basing the collection on underwear. This expanded my research further in to superheroes/fantasy fashion also. Fantasy, is what would give the garments the overall finish and feel breaking down boundaries in terms of materials other then fabric to produce each design and emulate the true nature of the cherry blossom beauty.

Mentioned previously that innovation was an important factor, but at the same time being aware of the construction and properties of selected applications on certain fabrications. I.e. certain fabrics may not work with the pattern construction.


Concept Catalyst

Research; the first approach to this was not an easy one, sourcing something that was going to engage me and bring out my creative but yet technical muse. However at the same time establish a “concept” both demiurgic and visually innovative; these are the perimeters that had to be considered. Reflection highlighted pivotal inspirational notes that never left the mind….

“In October a freelancing project came up, the client wanted contemporary/juxatposed pieces of artwork producing for a collection for a fair-trade womenswear brand. Ideas where discussed about how they wanted certain trends to transcend. The oriental trend is coming through on runway ss/18 and the cherry blossom tree would look fantastic on a tailored dress however the tree was to be upside and the roots on the top of the garment a sublimation printed piece; They loved the idea!” (However the client needed to do more research and the brand never launched.)

It’s never left my thoughts that this particular concept could be executed worthier then just a printed piece of artwork on a garment, and something so original and beautiful could have such an impact if approached in the correct tone.

#freelance #designer #companies #creative #industry

Application Exploration

Processes such as the knitting machine “Monarch” and Laser Cutting; were applications that I was not yet familiar with, however very aware of their finishes and also printing both digitally and screen printing.

With printing applications reflecting back to my practice, I feel I am already familiar with and know how to manipulate a screen on a pattern.  This particular skill I developed through using the Adobe software Illustrator, this is a core tool in my practice.  Using this tool has brought artworks/designs to fit patterns accordingly; but this I found is through my critical understanding of pattern construction.

Researching McQueen especially his prints, both pattern and artwork have to be married perfectly, so further research into designers who use and create art that give garments a real life force.  Miharayasuhiro another designer who is not avant garde but the simplest item of clothing looks like his artwork could walk of the garment itself; and that’s how he has displayed his works in his campaigns which is so original.  I like the idea of using a 3D element in my artworks using shading techniques in Illustrator or actually using the cherry blossom petals themselves and enriching the colour and giving the artwork/print a new dimension and texture.  So the main objective in regards to using the print process is that the print itself has to demonstrate ‘movement’.

Using the knitting/Monarch was insinuated by the concept; examining the 1950’s underwear this particular process was heavily used. So it was essential to experiment and investigate how this particular process works. From using the Monarch there was a realisation that skills adorned from Adobe Illustrator was detrimental to importing designs into the Monarch’s design software so both design and yarn exploration outcomes will be interesting.

The idea dawned of actually constructing lines so the pattern/shape fits the body without any darts or stitch lines and quite possibly no boning. We know for fact it is possible, Iris Van Herpen has done this to a degree, but casting back to my selected concepts the shapes have to be applicable to the overall design, I will be able to identify how I could apply this theory once the design development process is at a stage of near completion.

#design #illustration #designer #British #knitting #technical #sketchbooks #knitting #knit #jersey #pattern #construction  #adobe #vector #programming #textiles #software


Fashion Marketing | Part One


Fashion Marketing | Part One

Now with so many brands coming through we are getting to the point that fashion itself maybe losing its authenticity? We have celebrities putting their name to collections to collaborate with brands simply to incur profit? Not much real emphasis on the actual design, but just the price tag and sometimes no real identification with their demographic, which I have personally seen in the industry. Now we have fashion enthusiast i.e. fashion bloggers earning a better salary then Head Designers who have been doing it for years; it’s quite incredible.

It would be interesting to see if people continue to follow these particular bloggers if they know before a blog insert that they got paid to review an item. They are not going to give a garment a poor review if they got paid a significant amount? Or would they? I do think bloggers are a great addition to the industry, but I would be very selective because they could possibly hinder your design business and this goes for the same as far as celebrity endorsing your creations.

#fashion #marketing #celebrities #endorsements #fbloggers #bloggers #blogger #brands #demographic #creation #design #designer #industry #sales #online #blog #business #entrepreneurs #directors #juniors #managers #team #instagram #interships #art