CDCM701 Final Project | MA Creative Pattern Cutting

 

Design Concept | Final Project | Researchmind-map-design-concept

#Designer #Couture #Fashion #Creative #Industry #Research #Patternmaking

Design Concept | Queen of Wands | Exploration

The design concept ‘Queen of Wands’ is themed on the royal courts of the 18th and 19th century and its grand Architecture.  Art movements from particular periods also will be used as inspiration; for example Art Deco and Art Nouveau, which will influence the collections silhouettes and fabric selection.  The Queen of Wands creative cut will demonstrate a contemporary approach to my idealism of court fashions for the 21st century. Taking into consideration in the development phase; where would my creative cut designs work on a commercial scale and can the patterns be manufactured successfully taking into account time constraints and management. The collection will consist of Jackets, coats and dresses, however at this stage of the research process, its ideal to not restrict the design development. Queen of Wands will be an Autumn/Winter Collection especially producing a series of outerwear silhouettes, I would feel it would limit the fabric selection particularly the weights if it was a summer collection.

#contemporary #fashion #creativecut #art #19thcentury #18thcentury #collection #commercial #fabric #design #inspiration #designer #haute #couture

 

Queen of Wands | Creative Cut Methodologies

From the 1920s and 1930s, the Art Deco creative application of design, architecture and visual arts became a popular art movement and influenced, furniture, Jewellery, fashion, architecture, motor vehicles and transportation. Art Deco is derived from the title ‘Arts Decorators’ from the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris 1925. Art Deco combines modernist applications with intricate craftsmanship with the utilisation of premium materials. There was a great increase during this movement in social and technological progression and Art Deco emphasizes this in representation in glamour and luxury.  These significant elements in the Art Deco application is key to the design concept of the Queen of Wands, the essence of the artistic movement needs to incorporate the current social and technological progression of the 21st Century. In relation to the creative cut application; pattern construction needs to encapsulate, opulent silhouettes and fabrications which will emulate the luxury element.

#design #concept #project #artdeco #1920s #modern #art #social #international #luxury #glamour #lifestyle  

Queen of Wands | Mood Board

MOOD BOARD

#artnouveau #artdeco #new #art #art&fashion #artist #goldenage #interior #design #architecture #inspiration #botanical #gardens  #femininity #queen #royalty #contemporary #research

Design Development | Art Nouveau & Art Deco Creative Fusion

Experimentation, in the construction of The Earl Art Deco gates, formulating the contouring for the coat; following the shape round from the shoulder seam to the centre back. With this particular design the fabrication was already identified, so applying a stylised drape was proven to be quite difficult to produce in a dense fabric. Adding the extra segments to the pattern construction not only provided a unique drape to the design, but formed volume added volume to the creative cut.

#design # contemporary #contouring #textile #fabrics #art #fashion #movements #autumn #Winter #Collection #Coats #Jackets #artdeco #couture #print #colour #pantones #patternmaking

Subtraction Cutting |British Designer Julian Roberts | ‘Ria’ Dress Development | French Architect Hector Guimard Art Nouveau Movement

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The subtraction cutting technique, identified how I would be able to apply a contemporary draping technique that would be consistent throughout the collection. Analysis on how the circles are applied to the fabric, demonstrated how excess fabric and volume can be reduced to create innovative contour in the silhouette. The circles generate fluid creases and folds around the applied circle in the pattern. The subtraction technique in reflection to the art nouveau movement displays the same irregularity of fluid lines and forms. Hector Guimard a French art nouveau architect, bronze plate design 1909, utilises the very same motion, styling the excess bronze in a circle motion to generate the plate design manipulating the volume in the bronze to flow through the plate.

To Apply the subtraction technique, it is advised to use light to medium weight fabrics; however I wanted to investigate the subtraction application further by using a heavy fabric with a medium weight jersey. Examining how the two fabric properties would adhere to the pattern construction, this would establish how a stretch fabrication would operate, plus how would the heavy fabric  drape on the bust using this pattern application. Reflecting back to Guimand’s bronze plate, the material used to construct the plate is heavy material and rigid in compositions however, delicate contour and lines are still formed encapsulating the art movement; this was a key element to the ‘Ria’ Dress silhouette forming the Nouveau lines and geometric draping.

#draping #masterclass #subtraction #cutting #design #architecture #hectorguimard #fabric #patternmaking #artnouveau #art #fashion #creative

Queen of Wands | Art & Fashion

The methodology behind the creative cut technique is the relationship between art and fashion, and researching designers and practitioners who have developed this intrinsic connection between the two creative mediums has identified how this can be applied in the actual construction. Madeleine Vionnet used art concepts to develop her creative cut designs, utilising the art movements design ethos and applications to manipulate the fabric.   The Cubism art movement  also had an influence on the Art Deco period, contributing to  the conceptualization of ‘modern art’ and translating this into fashion principles  using geometric configurations to formulise a whole creative cut garments.

#modern #art #cubism #artdeco #vionnet #European #designers #snobiety #creative #fashion #contemporary #patternmaking #futurism #opart #60s #1930 #19th #century

Creative Cut | Contemporary Art Inclination | GEM Museum of Contemporary Art | Netherlands

Attending the GEM Museum in the Netherlands, really established how the creative cut practice utilise theories from art especially modern art. In reflection to the art practices of modern art or the ‘new’, creates a distinct visual communication without any limitations, compared to pattern construction.  Combining these two components can equate to a completely new output. Investigating Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements and how they would be interpreted in the creative cut practice, would require contemporary pattern making notions to emulate both artistic attributes. However through the exploration process of generating the patterns, this will identify how the pattern technique associates itself with the silhouettes. It is not a case of regurgitated the same silhouettes from that particular period where the both movements took place.  Identifying the contour and silhouettes and providing a current creative application that displays advanced pattern construction, embracing both art movements.

#modern #design #contemporary #art # fashion #relationships  #creative #communication #visual #pattern #sewing #manufacturing #silhouettes #fashion #Netherlands #museum

 

 

Creative Pattern Cutting | Formation | Exploration Techniques | Queen of Wards

Throughout the exploration process of developing the Queen of wands collection, what is apparent in the creative cut application is the formation of geometric shapes, but applied systematically. This is acute in both art design principles where geometrics are formulated and  contoured repetitively expanding on the existing shape.  This is a technique which is applied to the creative cut process, however adhering to the overall silhouette. Formation is a key element to the creative cut process of this collection, but also has established a particular style in the pattern making construction.

 

Queen of Wands | The Creative Cut Psychology

The Queen of Wand collection has various ideologies behind the concept, it will be a collection that offers aesthetical allure and the magnetism; encapsulating the grandeur of both artistic movements. The techniques applied to the creative cut will offer a ‘new’ visual perspective compared to the pre-existing  designers and practitioners who creatively immersed themselves in the art movements to influence their design processes.

From a creative cut perspective it will establish the relationship of designer and the creative pattern cutter, but also develop silhouettes that are wearable and most of all ready-to-wear.

In the construction of patterns, is to calculate the timescale which a creative cut design would take to construct.  The main objective of this collection is that it is able to be manufactured economically, but also be able to be constructed which a limited amount of machine operators.  To successfully achieve this is to manipulate the silhouette back into 2D, this is where must of the pattern cutting time would be spent, cutting and joining pieces tracing off as one pieces to eliminate the seams.  Depending on the fabric length and width this can be accomplished however with certain textile fabric the fabric width is limited and therefore pattern pieces do need to be segmented so you can create the desired lay plan.

 

Raja | Fountain Dress | Design Principles Art Deco and Art Nouveau Fusion

 

RAJA FOUNTAIN PHOTO BLUR

RAJA FOUNTAIN  Dress PATTERN SHEET

Inspired by a Art Deco graphic illustration of a grand water fountain at Lakeside boulevard; in the construction of the dress design, the orientation of the structure influenced how the fabric would drape on the silhouettes. So the design shows the water formation on the torso displaying a graduation through the creative cut of how the water would spray out but still complementing the female form. Developing the drape of the dress, volume was key aspect to the overall design.  The Satin crepe back drapes beautifully however the material still held a considerably amount of weight.  I utilised as rational pattern methods to add extra into the skirt pattern however applied elements of the free cutting to incorporating the flow of the water after the fountain spray hit the lake. The colour and hues also influenced the colour selection of the satins and lustre finishing which evokes both movements.

 

Pattern Construction | 0.5 cm Seam Allowance Vs 1cm Seam Allowance

Developing new innovative silhouettes has highlighted the appropriate use of the correct seam allowance. It is common to use the 1cm Seam Allowance however creating shapes and matching seams in construction can be difficult to manipulate the fabric when manufacturing processes are applied. With 0.5 seam allowance in 3D silhouettes the finish of the construction is more concise and seams are not bulky weighing down the shape. Overlocking the excess fabric even in manufacturing can add bulk to the seams and when pressing the pattern pieces once sewn adds to this issue in construction. Developing creative cut garments identifies why certain manufacturing processes are reduced which in effect have an impact on time and therefore reducing cost.

 

RiaDrape Mod Dress Formation | Contemporary Art | William Rowe | Art Deco Graphic Prints

RIA FINAL GRAPHIC PRINT

 

MA Creative Pattern Cutting | Cast Exhibition | Saturday 1st July 2017

 

 

Sustainability | Designer labels | Creative Cut
Through previous research, sustainability is a key component in the creative cut practice; currently the more common application is rework, and using existing garments and materials to create new and innovative designs. However what if you still want to utilise the ethos of sustainability but use mid to high-end price per metre fabrics? Investigating various pattern cutting methodologies from current practioners has enabled a new technique and approach to this question but also the selection of fabrics is only scratching the surface of sustainability for high end sector. Manufacturing has plays an integral part in the sustainability in the creative cut ensuring that the design meets the time and cost specifications. In the development of the creative cut pieces this is something that is consciously applied. Designers and fashion corporations are now focusing on the logistics of how their designs are transported insuring that Co2 admissions are kept low which is contributing to the sustainability factor. Even though designer collections for the high end market are manufacturing smaller volumes compared to the mid market. With most manufacturing facilities there is always the factor of meeting the minimums, which in turn can create the risk of overstocking a creative cut design which can potentially create dead stock. If creative cut pieces have not sold this can also generate waste in this form. Ideally when the creative cut pieces are manufactured this would be based on the made-to-order ideology with set sizing, (not made to measure). Utilising this ethos creates many benefits as well being able manufacture economically and incorporating the sustainability ethos in the creative cut designs.
• Fabric can be economical be used, not only by constructing an effective lay plan but also in the process of purchasing fabrics.
• Shipping costs will be reduced due not producing excessively to meet minimums
• Quality control on creative cut garments will be much more consistent with the made-to-order application.
• All creative cut garments will be manufacture in the UK, which in effect will have an impact on Co2 admissions.

 

Half Scale | Draping | Pattern Construction
Developing innovative draped silhouettes for the collection, has highlighted a few issues in regards to developing half scale patterns. The issue is that you have to be aware of the actual density of the fabric when replicating the design in full scale there is twice as much fabric used for the design, so in effect this alter the overall finish of the garment not to mention the fabric selected for the creative cut. Utilising the half scale bust allows a quicker processing time, when constructing creative cut pieces. However you have to adapt pattern cutting applications accordingly between the two scales to effectively complete the design.

 

 

Queen of Wands | Photoshoot
For the collection’s photo shoot, I have opted not to use models. Models can distract the observer and completely take the focus from the garment, and with the collection based on the two creative practices; art and fashion I wanted to capture the creative cut garment as it is, emphasizing zoomed photographic detail shots of the silhouettes formation as it would find in design journals and art books. In a culture full of branding fashion companies are starting to eliminate the use of models because this in effect can have an impact on how the design is viewed.

 

Fabric Selection | Construction | Color Inspiration
The fabrics that have been used for the collection have been inspired by both art movements, forming juxtaposes in the silhouettes. The construction of the creative cut will incorporate the Art Deco construction, but then the fabric will encapsulate the Art Nouveau texture fabric pattern design and alternatively this methodology was applied in reverse applying new design specification for each creative cut garment in the collection. Colour inspiration has also been directed by both art movements which was colour picked from the mood board however some pieces in the final project have been influenced by the subject also.

 

 

Art & Fashion | It’s All a Blur!
In regards to the creative cut practice, there is no separation in regards to the application of the pattern cutting process. Creating the collection has made this more acute especially creating graphic design prints from a dress pattern construction. Also because the creative cut patterns are also formulated digitally it also it demonstrates how a collective of geometric shapes can construct a whole garment but also a pieces of art.

 

 

2D design sketches | Pattern Construction before the Fabric Selection
The first initial design sketch for ‘Abella’ was constructed which pattern, however the issue was that the pattern did not correspond with well with the fabric. The creative cut dress pattern needed a fabric that had more structure. And the fabric initially selected for the design was gold finely pleated polyester, which also the fabric edges would also had to be left raw, which would make manufacturing the fabric very difficult. It is true what designers and practitioners say that you have to design with the fabric; however this can also hinder the exploration process in the creative cut practice. Using fabrics that we know the specifications for with the same pattern configurations we would end up with the same outcome time after time. So constructing the creative cut patterns for the collection, the focus was completely on the patterns, so not to get distracted with fabrics.

 

Creative Cut Practice | Review

Through my investigation between the relationship Art and Fashion, it definitely a technique that is applied to the creative cut practice. in this particular practice the concept is not to create fashion pieces, its completely not about fashion.  The focus is solely on the technique and methodologies on how you can construct articles that can be worn on the human form.  The statement about ‘its not about fashion’ is quite ironic because the collection does consist of desirable pieces to be ideally sold and worn as ready wear, however the beautiful thing as a creative pattern cuttter you can simply ignore that that primary factor and emerse yourself in creating original masterpieces.

 

Queen of Wands |Adaliz | ‘Art Deco Gate’ Regency Jacket

 

‘Ria’ |Contemporary Mod Drape | Art Nouveau drapery

 

ria photo page

 

Valencia | Art Deco Robe | The Earl

 

val pg 1

 

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